Getting Crack At Fish Eggs

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Kelly Stern’s family has been in the caviar business for six generations, dating back to the 1800s in Ukraine – a fitting history for dealers of the opulent old-world product.

But Stern and her husband, Brian Scheiner, are taking the family business into modernity, and into your local mall. Their company, Beverly Hills Caviar, has installed three automated caviar vending machines at Southern California shopping centers.

Stern and Scheiner installed the machines on Thanksgiving night, just before the Black Friday shopping rush, at the Burbank Town Center, Westfield Century City and Westfield Topanga in the San Fernando Valley. The machines sell 1- to 2-ounce containers of caviar, with prices ranging from $10 to $450. They also sell truffle oil; fancy salts; and packets of blini, thin pancakes often eaten with caviar.

“A few ounces of caviar and a pack of blinis, and for $55 you’ve made your party,” Stern said. “Most people spend more than that at Gelson’s getting special salads.”

Indeed, part of the idea behind the vending machines – Stern calls them “automated caviar boutiques” – is to let shoppers know caviar doesn’t have to be reserved for special occasions. That’s why each machine stocks a handful of selections for $20 or less.

So far, sales have been best at the Burbank Town Center. The machines have even attracted customers Stern didn’t expect: teenagers.

“The kids, they love it,” she said. “I’ve already seen teenagers buy stuff. They all have debit cards, and they buy iPhones, so I’m assuming caviar is no biggie.”

The Beverly Hills company imports caviar and wholesales to hotels, restaurants and upscale markets; the vending machines are its first foray into direct retailing. But Stern said the “automated boutiques” are not a marketing stunt and that selling caviar through the machines is more economical than opening a storefront.

“We’re in a recession, and it’s a very seasonal product and very ethnic,” Stern said. “I figured, I don’t need a full-time store for this.”

– James Rufus Koren

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